Build guides for every kit.

Assembly instructions

Build guides for every kit.

Find your kit, open the guide on the bench, and call us if you get stuck.

20 of 20 kits

Veritas

3 kits

Torii

2 kits

DS701

1 kit

Subwoofers & bass

3 kits

Conversion kits

3 kits
Kit not listed? Our general guide covers every CSS flat-pack kit while we update the rest. General guide →

Before you start

What you’ll need

At a minimum
Screwdriver
Hammer or mallet
Soldering iron
Wire cutters / strippers
Wood glue
Tape or glue for the port
Also helpful
Clamps
Electric drill
Port lengths
Torii9.75″
P215 / P215-X7″
Criton 1TD / 1TD-X9″
Criton 2TD / 2TD-X MTM9″ × 2
Criton 2TD / 2TD-X Tower7.5″ × 2
Torii Tower7.5″

Troubleshooting

Something not right?

Nearly every issue comes down to a connection. Start here.

No sound from the whole speaker

Usually a problem on the amplifier side of the crossover. Check the input wires are properly connected at the crossover (including ground wires returning to the negative connection) and at the binding posts. Make sure stray wires or other metal aren’t shorting positive to negative.

No sound from one driver

Most often a bad connection in the crossover. Check that only matching letters share a connection point, that inductors are connected on the tinned (silver) lead and not over the insulation, and that nothing is loose.

Crackling sound

Usually a loose connection. Check every driver and binding-post connection, and that solder joints are solid with no movement in the joint. Look for bare wire touching where it shouldn’t. If you can’t find the source, contact us.

Amplifier shuts down

Likely a short — the amp is seeing little or no load. Look for bare crossover wiring touching where it shouldn’t, and make sure the binding-post terminals aren’t touching each other. If you can’t find the source, contact us.

Lack of bass

Check polarity is consistent inside and outside both binding posts — one inverted speaker cancels bass. Keep foam clear of the port openings, confirm the woofer is on the W +/− section of the SmartNode board (not T +/−), and that the port is cut to the correct length.