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Instructions Criton 1TD-X

Crossover Assembly

Verify all crossover parts were received.

  1. Place each component in its labeled location on the SmartNode board by putting the lead wires through the holes for the associated board location. Orientation does not matter as long as you can reach the through-holes

  2. Secure the components to the board with the supplied zip ties. 

  3. On the backside of the board, solder leads together that share common letters (e.g. A to A, or B to B to B) using supplied hookup wire if necessary.  Ensure that no bare wires are touching unintentionally.

    1. NOTE: Crossing bare wires from non-matching letters can degrade sound quality and damage the drivers or your amplifier If you need to run across another wire, ensure you use the insulated hookup wire supplied in your kit.

    2. NOTE: Inductors have a insulating coating on them. You cannot solder directly to the red or orange colored portions of the inductor wire or you will cause an open circuit. You should solder to the pre-tinned leads (silver portion) to ensure proper connection.

  4. Cut 3 lengths of wire, long enough to reach from:

    1. The binding posts on the rear panel to the crossover board (12-17")

    2. The woofer terminals to the crossover board (15-17")

    3. The tweeter terminals to the crossover board (17-21")

    4. NOTE:  Leave enough slack on these lengths to be able to reach from the crossover mounting location to the driver terminals while the driver is outside of the cabinet. 

  5. Insert the red wire through the T+ hole on the SmartNode board and solder to appropriate letter.  Insert black wire through the T- hole on the SmartNode board and solder to the appropriate letter.

  6. Insert the red wire through the W+ hole on the Smart Node board and solder to appropriate letter.  Insert black wire through the W- hole the Smart Node board and solder to the appropriate letter.

  7. Insert the red wire through the IN+ hole on the Smart Node board and solder to appropriate letter. Insert black wire through the IN- hole on the Smart Node board and solder to the appropriate letter.

  8. Identify the red quick-disconnect and black quick-disconnect that match the designated wires. Attach these to one end of the wire you cut for the each lead by stripping small amounts of insulation from the matching colored wire and crimping the connector to the exposed portion. Solder can be used to provide a more secure connection. We solder the quick connects in all finished speakers we ship.

    1. NOTE: Your kit with multiple sizes of quick-connect female terminals for the driver and binding post connections. The black connections are for the negative terminals and the red connections are for the positive terminals. Check all quick connects and match them to their appropriate locations before crimping to any wires. The larger terminal on the driver is positive.

    2. Red 0.250" - Positive Binding Post 

    3. Red 0.205" - Positive Woofer and Tweeter

    4. Black 0.250" - Negative Binding Post

    5. Black 0.110" - Negative Woofer and Tweeter

    6. NOTE: If quick connects do not fit snugly on a terminal, use pliers to squeeze a little at a time until the fit is tight.

    7. ​

What You'll Need

At a minimum:

  1. Screw Driver 

  2. Hammer or Mallet 

  3. Soldering Iron

  4. Wire Cutters/Strippers

  5. Wood Glue

  6. Tape or Glue for the Port

​

You might also find beneficial:

  1. Clamps 

  2. Electric Drill

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Flat Pack Enclosure Assembly

Verify all cabinet parts were received.

  1. Clear dust from corners of all panels. Any debris in the joints will prevent you from getting a tight, flush surface when gluing up the cabinet.

  2. Assemble cabinet WITHOUT glue to ensure all panels fit together

    1. NOTE: Due to regional and seasonal humidity differences, some sanding may be required to insert braces into appropriate slots. This is more common in the Baltic birch cabinets because plywood has slightly less stability than MDF. The front and back panels are oversized by 1 mm to ensure that only the edges need to be sanded. Without this, any issues in glue up or panel swelling due to humidity would potentially require sanding the entire top, bottom, and side panels to flatten the outside of the speaker. 

  3. Disassemble cabinet and place panels on a clean surface, arranged for easy assembly. Take note of the recommended order of assembly in the visuals that accompany this document.

  4. (OPTIONAL) Before assembly, you may drill pilot holes for mounting the crossover board using the board as a template. Use caution not to drill through the panel.  The board should be mounted on the bottom panel pushed as far back as possible.  This step is not necessary, but will make installation of the board easier once your cabinet is fully assembled.  Screws can be pressed into the MDF cabinets without drilling if desired. 

  5. Apply wood glue to mating seams one at a time and assemble using the provided visuals as a guide. 

    1. Criton 1TD

  6. After the cabinet is assembled and the glue fully cured, fill any gaps with wood filler or bondo and sand all surfaces flat.

    •        8.    Finish as desired using veneer, vinyl, paint, etc. (see CSS blog post for ideas).

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