Torii Tower

Check that every cabinet part arrived.

Fig 1 · Panel layout Fig 2 · Vacuum the dadoes

Clear dust from every corner and dado. Any debris in a joint prevents a tight, flush seam when you glue up.

Dry-fit the whole cabinet without glue to make sure every panel fits.

Fig 3 · Dry fitting

Disassemble and lay the panels out for assembly. The front baffle’s tweeter-flange recess faces outward, the midrange chamber faces the midrange and tweeter, and the side with the brace cutout goes to the back.

Fig 4 · Assembly, step 1 Fig 5 · Assembly, step 2 Fig 6 · Assembly, step 3

Optional: pre-drill pilot holes for the crossover boards using the boards as templates. The TM board mounts on the side panel below the midrange chamber, behind the top woofer; the woofer board behind the second woofer.

Fig 7 · Crossover board pre-drilling

Glue the mating seams one set at a time, letting each set dry before the next. Dry-fit the opposite side panel to keep everything aligned.

Once the glue has cured, sand flush — the front and back panels overhang 1 mm on purpose. Fill any larger gaps with wood filler or Bondo and sand again.

Fig 8 · Bondo on gaps

Finish as you like: veneer, vinyl, paint.

Check every crossover part arrived.

Fig 9 · Crossover boards and components

Place each component in its labelled spot on the SmartNode board, leads through the matching holes. Orientation doesn’t matter as long as you can reach the through-holes.

Secure components with the supplied zip ties.

Fig 10 · Components installed on boards

On the back of the board, twist together leads that share a letter (A to A, B to B to B), using hookup wire to jumper between nodes. No bare wires should touch unintentionally.

Fig 11 · Twisted leads on bottom of board

Cut 8 wire lengths per speaker: 3 × 18″ from the top three woofers to the woofer board (+W−); 4 × 24″ for terminal cup → woofer board (+IN−), woofer board → bottom woofer, TM board (+M−) → midrange and TM board (+T−) → tweeter; 1 × 30″ from terminal cup → TM board.

Strip 3″ of white outer insulation from each pair and ¼″ of the red/black inner insulation from each end — a little more at the board end helps.

Fig 12 · Strip white insulation

Red for positive, black for negative: feed each wire end through its hole on the SmartNode board and connect to the right lettered node, jumpering where needed.

Solder all twisted connections.

Fig 13 · Assembled crossover (bottom) Fig 14 · Fully assembled crossover (top)

Mount the TM board on the side wall below the midrange chamber (behind the top woofer) and the woofer board behind the second woofer.

Fig 15 · Crossover mounting locations

Feed the +M− pair through one hole in the bottom of the midrange chamber and mark it “M”. Feed the +T− pair through the other and mark it “T”. Leave a little slack near the board.

Fig 16 · Midrange / tweeter wires

Crimp quick connects to the driver wires: large terminal on the red wire, small on the black.

Fig 17 · Crimp quick connects

Run both +IN− pairs down the back of the cabinet and out the terminal-cup hole. Twist the two reds together and crimp one large connector; repeat for the blacks.

Fig 18 · Joined input wires

Connect the terminal cups to the input wires, insert them and screw in with the #6 × ¾″ screws.

Fig 19 · Adjusting fit of quick connects

Place 2 pieces of denim in the midrange chamber, covering the back wall to 4″ thick.

Fig 20 · Installing midrange damping

Cut the eggcrate foam lengthwise into two 5.25 × 24″ pieces. Install one behind each woofer group, wrapping side → back → side over the crossover boards and set back slightly from the woofers.

Fig 21 · Installing eggcrate foam

Pull the “T” wire through the tweeter hole, slide the connectors on — large to large, small to small — and tug gently. If they slip, close them slightly with pliers. Screw the tweeter in, then repeat for the midrange and woofers.

Set the ports to 7.5″, fix with tape or glue, slide into the openings and screw in place.

Fig 22 · Adjusting port length

Connect to your amplifier and play something quiet.